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Tall statue of Gregory of Nin reading from a document with a bell tower looming in the background

Gregory of Nin, Croatia: Off The Beaten Path

 

Standing watch in front of the Golden Gates of Split, Gregory of Nin serves as the protector of the city, and protector of the Croatian language. Be sure to stop at Gregory’s statue for a bit of good luck; locals have rubbed his big toe for years hoping for good fortune in their endeavors.

 

In 926, Pope Ivan X outlawed Slavic languages in the Church; Latin was the single permitted language to be used for Mass and Church business. As very few Croatians spoke Latin, Grgur Ninski (a medieval bishop of Nin) made his opinion known loud and clear, to the detriment of his position. With passionate speeches and declaratory accusations, Gregory championed the Croatian language, and fought to keep it within the Church for the sake of the Croatian people.

 

Towering at 28 feet tall, the statue of Gregory of Nin is a well loved monument with locals and globe-trotters alike. Although his body is deep bronze in color, a single toe is now a smooth, golden surface due to years of being rubbed for good luck. Originally erected in the Peristyle of Diocletian’s Palace, the statue was relocated multiple times; Gregory of Nin now stands guard at the entrance to the city, symbolizing hope and national pride for all who enter.

 

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Parc del Laberint d'Horta

Parc del Laberint d’Horta, Spain: Off The Beaten Path

 

A neoclassical-romantic estate museum, and the oldest garden in Barcelona, the Parc del Laberint d’Horta makes for a picturesque afternoon in nature. With ornate fountains, marble statues, and a reflection pool all vying for your attention, the main attraction of this grand garden surely is its extravagant cypress maze.

 

Entering the park, you’ll walk through an ornate gate and notice the palace of the Desvalls (the original owners of the property). The Desvall’s neo-classical estate began work in 1791, and was renovated and updated in the mid-19th century, adding a romantic garden that included a waterfall, gazebos, and plenty of flower beds. If you look close enough, you’ll notice depictions of Greek mythology on the sculptures and architecture.

 

© Iakov Filimonov | Dreamstime.com

 

When you’re feeling brave, head to the neoclassical garden, down to the lower terrace, and enter the winding labyrinth. Make your way around corners and down corridors of pollarded cypress trees until you reach the center of the maze: the statue of Eros. If you can find your way back out of this winding puzzle, your next stop is the two pavilions: the first was created in the Italian style featuring temples, columns, and statues. The second is dedicated to the nine muses and is home to a large pond and natural spring.

 

Continuing towards the romantic garden, you’ll find beautiful flower beds surrounding various motifs alluding to themes of death. If you head all the way down to the northernmost end of the romantic garden, you’ll find a stunning waterfall covered in moss.

 

 

Parc del Laberint d’Horta has stood the test of time, and changed with time to become the glorious estate it is today. With a plethora of nooks, pavilions, and corners to explore, this garden makes for a romantic and adventurous day out!

 

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Isola San Giulio, Italy: Off The Beaten Path

 

Peeking up out of Lake Orta, just 400 meters from shore, the fairytale Isola San Giulio emerges from the rippling waves in the form of a beautiful and quaint village. With soaring mountains as the backdrop, and with picturesque architecture in both renaissance and baroque styles, the tiny island is irresistibly photogenic.

 

As you first arrive at the dock, follow the “way of silence and meditation,” a narrow street that meanders around the entirety of the island. Along the way, stop by the Romanesque Basilica di San Giulio (a 19th century seminary, and the top attraction of St. Julius Island), the bishop’s palace, and the Benedictine abbey. This abbey is still a permanent convent of cloistered nuns who devote themselves to prayer, study, restoration of church vestments, and making the famous “pane di San Giulio.”

 

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© Frank BachDreamstime.com

 

There are a handful of mansions to visit while exploring the secluded island, including Villa Perone and Villa Crespi, both of which are magnificently styled with gardens. Most of the other buildings on the Isola San Giulio are private residences, though one of the oldest, Villa Tallone, opens yearly to host classical concerts.

 

With a rich history, and a whole lot of beauty and character, St. Julius Island is a perfect day trip for those traveling within the Piedmont area of Italy and looking for a remote adventure.

 

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La Scarzuola, Italy: Off The Beaten Path

 

A surreal and magical place, with hidden chambers and mysterious symbolism, La Scarzuola is a fairytale convent with an evocative atmosphere. From extravagant mosaics to looming gargoyles and the all-seeing-eye, this 16th century monastery-turned-haunting-wonderland is characterized by an astronomical and labyrinthine feel.

 

According to medieval chronicles, this is the place where Saint Francis of Assisi planted a rose and a laurel; miraculously, a fountain sprung up and flowed. Saint Francis built himself a hut at the spot in 1218, and the counts of Marsciano later constructed a church and convent complex in its place as a remembrance of the miracle.

 

In 1956, the complex was bought by milan architect Tomaso Buzzi and transformed it into his idea of an “ideal city.” Apparently inspired by Francesco Colonna’s romantic story, “Hypnerotomachia Poliphili,” the architectural style best associated with La Scarzuola is neo-mannerism; the use of stairs in various directions, the deliberate disproportion of some structures, the heaping together of buildings and monuments, they all point to his bizarre and slightly idealistic vision. With 7 theaters and an eccentric design, this “lay city” was quite the contrast to the “holy city” adjacent to it.

 

A sort of “autobiography in stone,” La Scarzuola is a physical reflection of Buzzi’s philosophical inner life as well as an interpretation of the unconscious mind. A modge-podge of familiar monuments (Arc de Triomphe, Parthenon, etc) are intertwined with dark symbolism in layers of structures and winding corridors, all paralleling and defying the church convent next door. As a real eschatological allegory of existence, La Scarzuola is worth traveling to Italy’s Umbria region for.

 

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Quinta da Regaleira, Portugal: Off The Beaten Path

 

A UNESCO World Heritage Site close to Lisbon, Quinta da Regaleira is a grand estate that’s home to a mystical and luxurious palace, as well as secret tunnels, and enchanting gardens peppered with pagan symbolism. Explore the lush greenery and winding paths, while knowing you’re walking through history and into a modern-day oasis.

 

Originally constructed in the last days of the Portuguese monarchy, between 1904 and 1910, and later renovated by Italian set-designer and architect Luigi Manini, the masterpiece of today attracts travelers with exotic taste. The grand house is split over five floors and has an ornate Gothic façade, though this structural feat draws from Roman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Manueline styles.

 

© ZastavkinDreamstime.com

 

Although the palace is stunningly beautiful, the real attraction is the surrounding landscape. Featuring ornate fountains, grottoes, and statues throughout, the gardens of the Quinta da Regaleira were styled to represent ancient secret orders, with hidden tunnels, and concealed symbolism. Scattered throughout the property, you’ll find references to the Knights Templar, the Masons, and dark alchemy. Possibly the strangest feature, the Initiation Well is full of occult symbols and represents the initiation ceremony for the Knights Templar. At the bottom of the well lies a concealed passageway that runs 27 meters until it intersects with a network of underground tunnels that run the length of the gardens.

 

Rising from the lush forest, this Gothic estate holds mystery and adventure waiting to be sought out.

 

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Baia, Italy: Off The Beaten Path

 

On the northwest shore of the Gulf of Naples, there’s an enchanting glimpse of history in the depths of the sea: The Archeological Marine Park of Baia. What was once a thriving holiday resort for the ultra-wealthy Romans, Baia was later partially submerged due to volcanic activity. With an otherworldly sense of awe and quiet, explorers can snorkel or scuba dive to view the intricate mosaics, marbled floors, eerie statues, and imperial baths.

 

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From 100BC to 500AD, Baia was a destination spot for the super-rich; it was deemed more fashionable than Capri or even Pompeii. Roman socialites constructed luxury summer villas that included ornate tile floors, grand columns, and beautiful murals. Down the street, these high caliper Romans would seek out mineral baths that were set atop local hot springs. They were truly living in extravagance.

 

But opulence and vice sometimes go hand in hand. Along with the riches and fame, Baia was notorious for its rumors of scandal, corruption, and hedonistic offerings. Sextus Propertius characterized Baia as a “den of licentiousness and vice,” while Seneca the Younger describes it in one of the moral epistles as a “vortex of luxury” and a “harbor of vice.” With a dark side to its fame, Baia was attacked during the Barbarian Invasions, as well as throughout the 8th century. It was later abandoned in 1500AD for recurrent malaria spikes.

 

As it was located in the Phlegraean Fields, an active volcanic area, the town eventually began sinking into the sea, with the lower part of town being fully submerged by the end of the 8th century. Today, this previously elite city includes above ground ruins (Parco Archeologico delle Terme di Baia), as well as a series of 5 underwater sites that range from 5-13 meters in depth. An incredible submerged city, Baia is an adventure waiting to happen.